new material, no engineer copout answer... brace yourselves! First the drawing is just to show what i was talking about "not mine". We're not talking simply having the rafters "tied" to the wall plate, but rather opposing rafters tied to each other so they won't spread apart. Lacking rafter ties (and your drawing shows none), you need a beam. A ridge BEAM is an entirely different beast, and must be carefully specified. The 2012 IRC code calls for a minimum of a 32″ O.C. Because you have no resistance to the walls spreading apart at the top when the roof is loaded, a beam is required to keep the roof from sagging (and falling in) - at 48', it would be a good sized glue lam - it will be supporting half of the entire roof load. U.S. LUMBER GROUP, LLC - 2160 Satellite Blvd., Suite 450 - Duluth, GA 30097 © 2020. If you use a ridge board then each pair of rafters must have a joist running between the two far ends (to make a rigid triangle), or, at the very least, some sort of "tie" that is somewhere below the point a third of the way up each rafter. With a ridge board you can set the ridge in sections (manageable ones) but you can use this kind of ridge without adressing the issues Dan mentioned and a slew of others. This - as with all of the solutions - requires professional engineering. A ridge BOARD can almost be made out of cardboard -- it serves no real structural purpose but simply facilitates the joining and spacing of the rafter ends. At $10/per sq ft, you have a structural issue with your budget. my real issue is if 2x10s on 24in centers will be strong enough to have a total span of 40 ft . We have learned from our experience to use at least a 3 1/4″‘x.131″ groove shank nail in a column of four every foot … The easiest way to size engineered wood beams is to use the span tables that the manufacturer provides. Density: 515 lbs/ft^3. In that case I imagine you can look up span tables just as easily as any other bozo on this forum. A rule of thumb for a steel truss is one inch per foot of span or in your case 40 inches. my question is. More stable floors When used as part of a flooring system, Wood I Beam … Online span calculator here: Hi Pierce, If this is a ridge board then the rafters don't impart any load on it. Let me understand your problem correctly. Once you get your budget expectations in line, you might want to cosider using engineered lumber (i.e. Modulus of Elasticity: 30,000,000 psi. My plan was to nail and glue 2×12’s with 1/2” ply wood in the middle to make a 48ft ridge board “this will be supported by 4×4’s and 2×6’s”. is this something you are getting designed by someone qualified? The problem you're going to have is the sag your homemade member will have over 48' and how to keep it from buckling sideways while putting it in place. "I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. If you have a good material supplier, you might be able to take care of the professional engineering as part of your order. Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." what you are proposing for a ridge board is something you can do but there is no real reason to. An example of a ceiling joist would be a 2x10 set on the plates on each side of the span and nailed into the plates and the ends of the rafters (won't work in your case because of the 40' length) - this would be similar to the bottom chord on a truss. If you had "rafter ties" or "ceiling joists", they could provide the support needed to prevent this lateral thrust. My plan was to nail and glue 2x12's with 1/2'' ply wood in the middle to make a 48ft ridge board "this will be supported by 4x4's and 2x6's". rigde board with 2x10 rafters. thanks for any input. - M.K. Using garage sale finds, surplus lumber, etc. Is this possible lol. So your question about 2x10s being strong enough for the span is inconsequential. As you've drawn it, you would need a "ridge beam" not a "ridge board". Also remember if this is a ridge board not a ridge beam, you need rafter ties to keep your walls from being thrust outward. or did you just buy a design online? by the 40, 60, 65, 80, and 90 series joists provide broader gluing and nailing surfaces for sheathing, helping to save time and money for builders. x 5-1/2 in. I was planning on using  24ft 2×10 as my rafters on 2 ft centers. If this is your question, then there are many ways to splice multiple boards together to make one ridge. i will be using plenty of ties. © 2020 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved. All Rights Reserved. Sizing engineered wood beams is not at all difficult., Podcast 295: Black Windows, Sagging Roofs, and Mold Control, Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20, Simple Way to Make Old Walls Straight and Plumb, Expert insights on techniques and principles. x 8 ft. Boise Cascade Versa-Stud LVL SP 2650 1.7 wall framing is engineered for high-quality builders who want stronger walls to resist wind loads, … The engineered product is stronger and allows for greater spans. Hope that is helpful. Have built 'pole barn' type structure 20 ft by 30 ft with surplus ;materials for under 50 CENTS per sq ft.! Keep in mind that it largley depends on whether he is using a (yard sale) protractor to guage them correctly for your particular nail gun. Max. Thanks for any input. Standard American Beams, aka Junior Beams or S Beams… Plus, get tips for a clean and solid installation. Forget about your span issues. I think you should be looking at trusses. Start your subscription today and save up to 52%. Thanks, I couldn't upload a photo so im making a new post.

I am trying to build a 48'x40' pole barn. My last build for a shop (heated with walls and foundation) was $1800 for permits for 780 sq ft, ($2.30 sq ft for nothing, basically a tax). If it is the 2x10 with 20 ft rafter span you are concerned with, the simple answer is no. If you need cost effective nails to stay within budget, you might be able to get a deal on re-collated salvaged nails from junkhound. In order to properly use these tables, you need to determine the load per foot of beam. PS:  thank you for not suggesting he hire an engineer . Unbending and straightening old nails is not too bad, it is the laying them in a line correctly and collating with hot glue gun that gets tedious . Mpst of that cost nails and power and fuels. I assume you are wondering if you can join peices to make a singular ridge to be put in place on posts before the rafters. I couldn't upload a photo so im making a new post. The floor joists need to rest somewhere to transfer the load of the floor … staggered pattern with at least a 3″x.120″ nail. An example of a rafter tie would be a horizontal 2x6 bolted to each side of opposing 2x10 rafters about halfway down the rafter on each side. this is what im going for 48'x40' pole barn with 6x6 poles on 8 ft centers and 2x6 framing in between. built it for about $12 sq ft, and not junk. Easiest would be glue and screw 2 layers of 1x12 pine with the joints staggered. If you are having floor joists in a building, why are there no supporting beams for them? Pressure Treated Glulam Beam (3) Actual Thickness When making a selection below to narrow your results down, each selection made will reload the page to display the desired results. I am trying to build a 48’x40′ pole barn. x 5-1/2 in. Beams of more than one ply must be fastened together with either nails or bolts. “6/12 Pitch”. I'm not sure you know what we mean by "rafter ties". This beam shape has a wider profile for added horizontal strength, making it ideal for sky scrapers or as a house beam, along with bridge beams, trailers, platforms, etc. In these solutions, the member running down the middle of the span would be a "ridge board" and performs as a bearing and nailing surface for opposing rafters and a way to set them in place during construction. determine the total load per foot of beam. I want to use 2x12 with 1/2'' ply wood in the middle. Generally speaking, you can use a ridge board if you have some sort of reasonable rafter ties (ceiling joists being the usual). pick the span you want (pick 4’0″ for example) select the Fb column of the lumber you intend to use (in AF&PA Design Values for Joists and Rafters #2 hem-fir = Fb … Span Length: 40 ft. Beam Depth: 10 in. If this project is permitted, chances are you'd be limited to prescriptive code without engineering support. The struggles you are up against is why almost every structure like this is now constructed of engineered prefabbed trusses...they're lighter, stronger and cheaper - and would be my recommendation. Another way to resist this lateral thrust would be additional roof structures on each side of the main building...your later cross section sketch seems to indicate this might be the case.


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